La Boqueria Market is an indoor market on the famous walkway la Rambla, which stretched three quarters of a mile (1.2km) through the heart of Barcelona (1). The market has been around since the 12th century however, it was originally located outside of the city, to avoid the high city taxes. The location moved in 1840 and took over a former monastery to allow for expansion. The market is also known as the Mercat de Sant Josep or the Market of St Joseph named after the monastery. The building was permanently covered in 1850 and finished to its current condition in 1914.
Though the goods change, the colors and smells of the interior remain timeless.
La Boqueria Market is a food market; do not expect clothes, knick knacks or leather goods. The stall owners pride themselves on the freshest produce and their displays are arranged to show off the colors and diversity of their goods. The produce is all local. Certain foods are associated with certain towns; the shrimp from Palamós, the anchovies from L'Escala. Stating the town of origin denotes authenticity and quality, just like Florida oranges are advertised with pride or the wine from the Napa valley.
Olives are a staple of a Spanish diet. They are often served as appetizers to be sampled while you choose your dish/tapas in restaurants. There are twenty four types of olives from Spain alone. (2) As you can see they vary in color and size.
As Barcelona is in the Catalan region of Spain many of the products are from Catalan.
For many generations the majority of Catalan residents have wanted to establish independence from Spain.
As recently as 2017, protests left many in jail, Spain is not willing to let one of the most affluent tourist attractions annex itself. Catalan flags can be seen flying from many windows in all different parts of the city. When we asked for mineral water one of our waiters asked us if we would like Pellegrino water (Italian) or Catalan water (Vichy). We of course chose the Catalan water. Many menus are written in Catalan first, English next and Spanish last, a deliberate snub to Spain.
The Catalan flag is golden with red stripes, the star is another form of the flag favored by nationalists as it symbolizes their desire for independence from Spain. (3) Look out for them as you walk through the streets in both the more affluent parts and the back streets .
You can also see it on a shield below; to the right of the photo hung with pride above a stall at the market.
The produce; from local hams to fish are fairly priced, as you can tell by the number of locals who shop here. Tour guides warn you to resist the urge to buy from the stalls at the entrance as their prices are to trap the unaware and eager tourists. Walk a little further in to discover the authentic local prices.
The unique personality of each of the stalls is charming. The order and precise placement of the display a photographer's delight.
This stall sold nothing but salt; in all kinds of varieties - pink salt, garlic salt, rock salt...
This stall sells just juices and cut fruit. For 2 Euros ( $2.18 at the time) for a beaker full of pomegranate or coconut or mango.
The dried fruit stall provided another colorful delight.
This one shown on the left had nuts, seeds and legumes on display.
But the market is not only for those looking for a healthy treat - this stall below sold only fries/chips; from artistic potato spirals to flavored sweet potato and potato fries the smells were deliciously tempting.
Desserts are also available in an artistic array and sold by the gram.
If you arrive hungry you can stop at one of the tapas bars, pull up a stool and join the locals for breakfast or lunch or grab a to go from the sellers direct to enjoy in a park nearby. Tapas or small plates are a most enjoyable way to eat; you order a couple of small plates to share or sample alone along with a glass of local wine (or Catalan water) and if you are still hungry get another until you are adequately full. There is never a rush, you pay when you are ready. The barkeeper keeps tabs until you are ready to leave. Asking for the check/bill is the signal you are leaving not the fact your plate or drink are empty.
There is no rush and conversation is encouraged.
Another one of the endearing features of this market is that, it is not only where the locals shop, but where the local restauranteurs shop too.
They come early in the morning to grab the seasonal delights to creatively enchant their customers later. Your well presented delicious evening dish originates from the meticulously arranged eye catching stalls at the Market Boqueria. Fresh from the chef's shopping bag in the morning to your table that evening. The unwritten rules of presentation, quality and flavor are proudly observed from the market stall to your plate.
Useful information:
Opening times: The market is open daily (excluding Sundays) 8.00am-8.30pm. Bear in mind not all stalls remain open for the complete time, some close at 2pm weekdays 6.30pm Fridays and Saturdays. Early and lunch time are the busiest times.
Address: La Rambla, 91, 08001 Barcelona, Spain
Closest Metro: L3 metro to Liceu.
Website : http://www.boqueria.barcelona/ (The original website is written in Catalan !)
Footnotes:
(1) The Ramblas is one wide road, which scales five separate areas of Barcelona, leading from the Plaça de Catalunya to the waterfront. It is a central sidewalk lined with shops, homes and tourist areas.
(2) https://www.oliveoilmarket.eu/all-about-olive-oil/spain-olive-oil-varieties/