This article is part of the Most Privileged Tourist series. Which follows my travels in Italy during Covid restrictions. The quiet and solitude in places usually hustling and bustling with tourists evokes mixed emotions. It is undoubtedly a wonderful delight and privilege to see these sights without the crowds, but it is also a reminder of how much Italy's tourist industry and so many Italians have suffered during the pandemic. To remain positive - my mission in the Most Privileged Tourist series is to ignite and stoke your passion to travel; so that when you can, you can help unfreeze these gems from their current cryogenic state and help the industry thrive again. In the meantime please stay safe and consider this series as the start of your next journey, enjoy and share with friends.
On Friday February 21st 2020 we left school for the weekend unaware that life would be so much different on Monday morning. My friend, a Kindergarten teacher, later told me that that particular Friday was the "Hundredth day of Kindergarten", Each year she reminds the children it is a celebration of their learning but it is not the end of the year and they will return the next school day and continue getting smarter. That year the Kinders did not return to class as their teacher had predicted. None of the students did. The schools here in Italy were the first US school to go virtual because of Covid. Those Kinders did continue to grow smarter through the love, resilience and determination of the teachers and their parents, but they did not return to the school until they were first graders. Overnight our lives changed.
At first it was the schools, they went virtual, museums and gyms closed, Italy closed its borders to other countries. But for a while there was an uneasy period, which felt as though it could go either way. The threat of a complete shutdown was looming in the background ready to take center stage, but still we had hope that this would pass ? Maybe fizzle out as people were more careful. At this time we could still travel. On the 29th February we traveled west to Sirmione, Lake Garda. It was eerily quiet. The museums were closed, spas and hotels closed. Restaurants were open but empty as all the tourists had left. Unknown to me, this was really the first of the most privileged tourist excursions. We were witnessing one of my favorite places in Italy, when so many others could not. I had the privilege of an exclusive showing of a beautiful area many people wait a lifetime to see. A canvas, free from people, like a neglected window after it has been cleaned made it clear to see even more history, beauty and charm than before.
This was the last trip we would take for a long time and the last without a mask in hand even up until the date of publishing this blog when we are still wearing them.
Italy was the first country after China to impose restrictions. We had all heard about what was happening in China and we were apprehensive this would happen to us. On March 8th, our fears were confirmed, our home in the Padova post code was one of the regions no longer permitted to travel outside of our homes.
Opposite is a screenshot of google maps showing the roads blocked by police cars. We were in the 'red zone'. All streets were blocked
The next day the whole of Italy followed. If we needed to go grocery shopping, the pharmacy, post office, had a medical appointment, were essential workers or needed to assist elderly relatives, you could, but only with self declaration papers.
Masks became compulsory even though hard to come by. We were not allowed to walk or exercise outside of our houses, only a short walk with your dog 200 meters from your house. We didn't have a dog, so this left us inside our gates. Within a few days the local district sent masks, they were primitive and came with a strict message Restoacasa - remain at home, but at least allowed everyone to enter a shop. March 11th non essential commercial and retail businesses were closed and the 21st March you could no longer travel to your workplace unless you were considered essential. All businesses and industries came to a holt.
The Italians were in general extremely compliant with all the rules. There was no hoarding of goods, the grocery stores were orderly and remained stocked. I have a few ideas why. Yes we lined up outside the grocery stores sometimes but mainly to maintain distance, new capacity rules and sanitation, everyone waited patiently, no elbowing, no rushing.
Interspar Mestrino -10th April 2020 (Good Friday two days before Easter)
Many Italians live with their elderly family members. The threat of bringing the virus home to their loved ones is very real. They come home, eat dinner, share time with their parents, grandparents everyday. In other countries the lives of the different generations seem less intertwined. Of course parents and grandparents are loved, but there is not the everyday connection. The need to protect the elderly was not as immediate and obvious as it was in Italy. The Italians were not thinking of someone else's grandparents as they navigate their day, but they are thinking of their grandparent they would go home to that night.
Likewise with the stores. Many Italians pay with cash or debit card not credit they could only buy with the money they had in their wallet or bank balance. They did not know when their next pay check would come and they were much more cautious to go outside of their means. Many Italians also are resourceful, they had pickled and canned food from their gardens last year. They have been pickling, canning and pressing the food from their gardens for generations. They also bake bread as routine, many have chickens in their yards and still have winter root vegetables growing in their gardens there was no need to panic.
You may remember the balcony serenades in the cities. At 6pm on the 13th March 2020 Italians went out on their balconies and played instruments or even radios to show solidarity and thank the medical staff. It was heartwarming to see the videos of neighbors playing together or dancing to the music of others. My son Sam went out on our balcony and played his saxophone. It felt uplifting to be part of a community again after being alone in the house.
Andra Tutto Bene" signs appeared on houses and fence lines proclaiming "Everything will be okay." Some of the signs can still can be seen today. A little faded and weatherbeaten but nether-the-less colorful and relevant a reflection of the Italian society in general. We certainly did not expect when we put up the posters that the sentiment would still be relevant a year later but here we are still hoping one day Andrà Tutto Bene - everything will be okay.
Below are signs from our neighbors 'Andrà Tutto Bene', 'Everything will be fine'.
Our family has been extremely lucky. We are okay and are optimistic for the future. The world that changed so dramatically overnight on the 21st February 2020 continues to change and it will
" All that you touch You Change. All that you Change Changes you. The only lasting truth Is Change.” ― Octavia E. Butler, Parable of the Sower.
Andrà Tutto Bene to all my readers. Subscribe to be the first to get new blogs. Or pin to Pinterest.