We visited this beautiful university city on a beautiful day. There is such a lot to discover, here are a few of my recommendations and commentary. I highly recommend you put Bologna on your Italy itinerary!

In the 13th century it was decreed that in the city center of Bologna, new roads could only be built if they contained a portici. Eight centuries later, it is a delight to walk on a summer day in the shade of these unique ceilings. You can hop from from street to street dry from rain and shaded from the summer sun. From a utilitarian stand point they are extremely practical, but as a privileged tourist,  the wonder was to witness how each architect on each street had made the regulation into art - as a challenge to enhance the city with a little more wonder and grace. 

The utilitarian reason was not because of the rain showers or the beating down of the sun's rays; not for the benefit of the pedestrian but rather because the city was growing so rapidly, porticoes could house more people without narrowing the street - rooms could be built on top of the portico. So be sure to look up as you walk around Bologna there are 33 miles (53km) to be admired in the city. In fact always look up in Italy. Think Michealangelo, think of Giotto - churches, porticoes, blue skies, frescoes, Italy has so many reasons to look up and so many reasons to be amazed at the details. Italy is 3D, 360 degrees, the full canvas, no detail was missed in its creation, rules were not just complied with, the people who implemented them knew their own worth and the legacy it would make. Those designing the porticoes in Bologna could have just made a white ceiling in todays measures it would have been more practical and cost effective but thank goodness they saw their job as a blank canvas and eight centuries later if you look up you will be delighted they did.

You will find porticoes in many Italian cities including Venice but non as varied and lengthy as in Bologna. I will be sure to update you if I see porticoes as wonderful and varied as these.

So keep looking up in Bologna because there are two iconic symbols that keep your gaze on the sky.  The towers (Le Due Torri) : Garisenda and degli Asinelli built between 1109 and 1119 by families bearing the same name. At this time in Bologna every family of importance had a tower - two hundred at the peak time. Now only 60 remain in the city. They were built to show the prestige of the family and the military prowess of the city. The two towers were handed over to the city in the 13th century. 

These two medieval towers were mentioned by Dante in the Inferno. Only one of the towers is climbable.  Torre Garisenda was built at the same time but was lowered for fear of collapse during the 14th century it is now much shorter in height at 154.2 ft (47 m) less than half of its neighbor. The degli Asinelli has been renovated and offers beautiful views of the city. But as for any good view - you have to earn it - it is 498 internal steps to the top. Degli Asinelli is 318 ft (97.02m) tall and reigns majestic over the city. 

The climb is long and rustic but there is a reward. At the top, green patchworks hills skirt the terra cotta colored rooftops of the city and on this particular day fluffy clouds and blue sky provided the perfect backdrop. The terra cotta red is how Bologna earned one of its three nicknames; la Rossa, “ the red one” is a reference to the red rooftops of the historic centre; la Dotta, “the learned one” referring to its university, founded in 1088, which is one of the most ancient and prestigious of the world and la Grassa, “the fat one” because of the hospitality of the citizens and of course the great food of the region including Bolognese sauce. (1)

Please check ahead as you may need reservations;

Construction begun on the Piazza Maggiore in 1390 for this huge and impressive basilica.  It is one of the world’s largest churches (the sixth largest in Europe): boasting 433ft (132m) long, 197ft (60m) wide and 148ft (45m) high.

Piazza Maggiore - is the piazza forming the heart of the city - it straddles the University, the shopping area, the food center and the religious base. People gather here and like any great city square, they use it as a meeting place, a place to reconnect, a place to relax, the pulse of the city. People come and people go but there is constant action.

Basilica San Petronio - remains unfinished as you can see the bottom façade features white and red marble but the upper part is just bricks. In addition, the original plan, which called for a gigantic cross-shaped building, was never completed; the vision for the city University in the early 16th century meant that the more impressive ideas for the Basilica  had to be downsized. Do not be deterred: this Basilica is not to be dismissed or underestimated and make sure you go inside. Please note to go inside you need to have your shoulders covered and shorts/skirt of a specific length. A wrap or shawl will do the trick.

Before you go inside, note the main doorway was carved in 1425 by Jacopo della Querica from Sienna. Madonna and child are in the center on the sides  Ambrose and Petronius the city's patrons. Many artists have studied the design for this doorway including Palladio and Michelangelo.  The sistine chapel was finished in 1512. Palladio finished the Teatro Olimpico in 1585.   Good art continues through generations.

Inside is impressive as well.

This amazing building is  also home to the longest meridian line in the world (to learn more about the Prime meridian see footnotes (2) ) The line measures 220ft (66.8m) in length and was designed by Italian astronomer Gian Domenico Cassini in 1656. It corresponds to 1/600,000 of the Earth’s circumference. Once a day the sun's rays enter from a hole positioned 89ft (27m) above the ground and hit the line precisely  at noon.

It's refreshing to see how this church combines science and religion. Currently there seems to be such a conflict between supporting science and supporting the church. - you have to choose sides. In this sacred space there is one line--the meridian line - a line that represents the advancement of science. In this church you can stand both sides of the line.  The fact this advancement is a showpiece of the church sums up the city. It is a reverent city looking forward and back showcasing both and using all tools it had/has available. The fundamentals of a great university town; atmosphere and reverence, history yet foresight, past and future.

If you need another reason to love this city, climb the cathedral dome for more amazing views and a stunning view onto the towers where you can really see the difference in height and it provides a great vantage point to spot the other towers. 

Affectionately, nicknamed (il Gigante) the giant - this fountain in Piazza Nettuno was built 1563-1566 and is almost 13 ft (4m) tall and weighs 4,850 pounds (2,200 kg). It was commissioned by the church in a symbolic gesture meant to glorify Pope Pius IV and the power of the Catholic Church over the city of Bologna: just as Neptune rules the seas, the Pope rules the world. The sculptors in a small defiance made Neptune muscular and the sea maidens below a little controversial. As a fun side note it is said that in order to pass an important exam, students at the University of Bologna must take two counterclockwise turns around the fountain, just like its creators kept walking around the base of the fountain pondering how to best make the best statue.

An interesting memorial in the square was an exhibition of resistance workers during the second world war. A poignant reminder that history has not always been easy for this city.

No trip to Bologna would be complete without time spent in the Quadrilatero. Make sure to take time to  walk down the narrow streets of this medieval area. The name Quadrilatero is derived from the word Quadrilateral, meaning not only the shape, but also a defensive system or fortress. This area of Bologna had its greatest development during the Middle Ages and became home to major traders, crafters and food shops.  It is bustling, colorful and lively. Popular with locals, foodies and tourists alike

The narrow streets are a joy to navigate as you dodge in and out of produce, busy clusters small tables and produce for sale. 

My three adjectives for Bologna would be enlightened, inspiring and delightful. Bologna has a history of inspiring people and delighting them--you will not be disappointed here.

• https://deliciousbologna.com/bologna-la-grassa-the-fat-one/

• The Prime Meridian - https://www.nationalgeographic.org/encyclopedia/prime-meridian/

• https://bolognauncovered.com/2015/07/29/three-things-you-never-knew-about-bologna

• https://bolognauncovered.com/2018/07/21/climbing-bolognas-asinelli-tower/