Monselice

We changed to yellow last week in the color code of restrictions in Italy. Yellow means we can now travel in the Veneto again - just in the region but better than orange which meant we could only travel in our commune unless we had an exception. Our commune (Municipality) is Veggiano. 3,894 people and a total of 16.2 km (10.06 miles) squared. The Veneto is 18,399 km (7,104 miles) squared, so overnight our range of possible exploration increased by over 710 %.

Last weekend it was stormy and rainy but this weekend, though cold and windy, the sun came out so we piled in the car and took an afternoon trip. My criteria was basic - I wanted the location to be within 45 minutes, not somewhere we had been and ideally something of interest. I used google maps and panned out from the house. I clicked on three areas before Monselice peaked my interest. I am so glad it did, the images on the internet did not do it justice. So hope mine do.

The name Monselice, originated from the flint which can be found in the hill 'la selice' in Italian and the prefix 'Mon' which is often found in town names in Italy and comes from 'montagna' which is mountain in Italian. The flint from this particular hill used to be quarried and paves St Mark's square in Venice. Monselice is a medieval town and on a normal year hosts a joust in September. (1) The Rocca Tournament

We parked close to the city walls and walked through them and headed towards the cobbled street Via del Santuario to the Castello di Monselice. On the way to Via del Santuario, the colorful houses lined the sleepy roads which were extra quiet as we arrived during the traditional hours of reposo (Italian siesta time after lunch). The narrow roads in the town were decorated with hearts for Valentine's day weekend.

According to legend there are three ghosts in the castle:

Avalda, Ezzelino's lover who practiced witchcraft was murdered in the castle on the request of Ezzelino. She has been spotted wandering around the castle in a  white blood stained dress.

Jacopino Da Carrara, was imprisoned inside the castle for seventeen years by his Uncle who thought he was plotting against him. Legend has he was ‘sentenced’ to death by starvation.  Those who claim to have seen the ghost describe him as thin and with long white hair. Jacopino's lover, Giuditta, who remained unaware of Jacopino’s destiny right until her death, is said to wander around the castle at night asking visitors about the fate of her Jacopino. (2)

Unfortunately, the castle was closed due to covid restrictions, but normally you can view an extensive weapons and armory collection and also an amazing 16th century library. May be a great reason to go back, as long as it is not after dark.

Leaving Castello di Monselice and following the boulevard you cannot help but notice the statues on the wall. Dwarfs line the fifteen foot high wall of Villa Nani-Moncenigo, Like actors they command their audience with their facial expressions, their stage is the wall and their background beautiful olive trees. The olive tree has always impressed me with the color and shape of its foliage. For such a delicate fruit tree it amazes me that it is evergreen. Even in February the leaves are a perfect shade of light green reflecting the light around them.

It is not uncommon to see statues of dwarfs on walls around Italy. The first recorded statues date back to Roman times. Household, human dwarfs were common in the households of important persons and sovereigns in Europe in the middle ages. Their small height made the 'important person' seem taller and therefore they were thought to consolidate the importance of their owners. Sadly this trend flourished in imperial Rome, and slave children were sometimes stunted to increase their price. During the Renaissance their vogue increased and individual dwarfs became famous. (3) Statutes of dwarfs often were meant to bring good luck and fortune to the family much like the origin of garden gnomes.(4) These ones are certainly charming and beautifully preserved.

As a side note - Villa Valmarana ai Nani also in Veneto (Vicenza not Monselice) also has dwarfs . The legend states the owners of the villa had a dwarf daughter, Layana. Her parents wishing to protect her, ordered that she would stay confined within the high walls of the mansion and, to avoid hurting the girl’s feelings, all the servants and custodians of the villa were chosen exclusively from dwarfs. In the village, rumors of her existence circulated and a local Prince entered the villa to see if the rumors were true. On seeing the Prince, Layana became aware of her condition and fell into so much despair that she took her own life by jumping off the tower. At that point the faithful but desperate dwarf servants turned into stone. Even today the 17 dwarfs guard the eternal sleep of Layana from their position on the walls of the villa. (5)

As far as I am aware, the dwarfs of Villa Nani-Moncenigo do not have such a tragic story  The dwarfs are a reference to the original resident's family name Nani which means dwarfs.

Further along the wall there is another theatrical treat when you peek through the pedestrian gate into the Villa garden. A scenographic staircase lined with statues, this time of greek mythical gods lead the way up to an exedra ( room, portico, or arcade with a bench or seats where people may converse).

Leaving the Villa behind you soon arrive at the Duomo Vecchio, a beautiful XIII century Romanic-Gothic church built in honor of Santa Giustina.

Through the lion-gated way is the Jubilee Sanctuary of the Seven Churches, consisting of six chapels that follow one another along the road that climbs up to the square in front of Villa Duodo , where the church of S. Giorgio is located .

The seven churches or chapels are the creation of Pietro Duodo , a Venetian noble who had already built his residence and the adjoining private chapel. In 1605 he obtained from Pope Paul V the permission to build and name the small churches as the seven major Roman basilicas, obtaining the same privilege of the Plenary Indulgence . (Complete remission of punishment.)

In the churches there are six paintings by Palma il Giovane ( 1548-1628 ) depict the Roman basilicas corresponding to the titles of each chapel.

In the seventh church, that of S. Giorgio, in 1651 the bodies of three martyrs and numerous relics were brought from Rome . The arrival of new relics in 1713 lead the Duodo family to add a real sanctuary next to the church in which to keep the Holy Bodies. (6) Each window houses the relics of a saint carefully presented on beautiful fabric giving the feeling that the bodies are sleeping peacefully around the Mother Mary.

Currently the villa serves as a branch of the University of Padua.

The walk back down to the car left me feeling fulfilled and invigorated.  Our first trip since early December was a day filled with blue sky and history. History which you could feel through the soles of your shoes, as you stepped on the cobbled path of Via del Santuario, each stone laid by hand and unique in its form and placement. The mosaic of villas, castles, churches, stairs which line the cobble streets are unique in their form and placement too. From architects to builders each brick was placed for a reason and purpose. Let us tread our world as a combination of architects, builders and tourists. Placing each step and stone in our lives which we can control, with careful thought and consideration for the people who will see and walk on them in the future. For the steps and stones already placed, let us be tourists and bear witness and marvel in the dedication and forethought of others. 

(1) https://www.abano.it/en/Territory/monselice.aspx

(2) https://www.venetoinside.com/hidden-treasures/post/the-ghosts-in-the-castle-of-monselice/

(3) https://www.britannica.com/topic/dwarf-mythology

(4) https://www.trees.com/gardening-and-landscaping/history-of-garden-gnomes

(5) https://www.venetoinside.com/hidden-treasures/post/the-legend-of-the-dwarves-of-villa-valmarana-ai-nani/

(6) https://www.collieuganei.it/chiese/santuario-sette-chiese/