Modena home of Balsamic Vinegar

Modena is a medieval town in the Emilia Romagna region of Italy. The birthplace of Luciano Pavarotti, home of amazing engineers of speed; Ferrari, Maserati and Ducati have factories/museums in the area. Evidence enough that Modena is steeped in 'creativity' and 'innovation' both present and past. Probably the most famous invention of the area which has the longest history and endurance is the creation of balsamic vinegar. Follow below as we tour Modena's historic center and the long history of this sweet and savory culinary delight. Follow us as we tour the city and then visit one of the most renowned balsamic vinegar distilleries in the area.

Modena's historic center is full of narrow medieval streets, piazzas and lined with colorful porticoes which have both historians and tourists swooning.

The Duomo (Cathedral) was designed in 1099 and consecrated in 1184. It has often been referred to as one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture in Italy. The interior has two separate areas. The first is lined in brick and has both a somber and tranquil feel. The second area is a gallery with scenes of the Passion of Christ. 

The exterior of the Duomo is just as endearing and well appointed . There are entrances and exits onto three different piazzas and each facade on each piazza has a different feel.

Below are the Piazzas. If you would like to do a virtual visit  you can here : http://www.unesco.modena.it/visita-virtuale-duomo/

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena is the best balsamic vinegar in the world and is made under strictly controlled rules. The rules are monitored by a consortium Consorzio Produttori Aceto Balamico Tradizionale di Modena. This body of experts is also responsible for licensing the few producers and restaurants permitted to produce and sell the authentic product .

We were lucky enough to have a tour of  Acetaia Leonardi  in Margreta near Modena and witness the methods they have used since 1871.

Balsamic vinegar of this region is cultivated on a farm called an Acetaia. The Trebbiano grape and Moscato grapes are harvested at their sweetest time in October. It is gently pressed by a mechanism which works like a balloon gently inflating to press the grape, this carefully procured liquid is put into a modern day cauldron and under strictly controlled conditions cooked and stirred over an open fire for 48 to 72 hours which reduces the liquid to half its volume.

The liquid is then cooled and transferred into a large barrel affectionately called the Madre "Mother" barrel and  this is where the balsamic starts its fermentation process.  In this barrel it is fermented for 12 months.

After the first twelve months, during the winter season when the bacteria, which helps with the fermentation process, is least active, the liquid is transferred into a series of specially made wooden casks. The wooden barrels are kept in rows each barrel gradually reducing in size. 

Each year 10% of the smallest barrel is harvested to be bottled and sold. Then 10% of the next smallest barrel replaces the lost liquid. This continues one refilling the other until it reaches the largest barrel at the end. The largest barrel is refilled by the Madre.   Over twelve years the original 6 gallons of juice is reduced to one quart and leaves a sugary complex liquid.  It is used sparingly on Parmigiana- Reggiano cheese, grilled meats, vegetables or strawberries.   It is unlike the balsamic we buy in supermarkets which we use liberally on salads.

The barrels are deliberately made of varying wood; ash, cherry, oak, juniper, mulberry, chestnut. As the fruit is passed from barrel to barrel it picks up the taste of the new barrel and the mix of differing wood barrels becomes part of the recipe. The barrel never needs to be replaced. Some of the barrels at this Acetaia dated to its origin in 1871 or older. The proprietor has also experimented with using just one type of wood for all the different size barrels in the process.

We were lucky enough to taste one which had exclusively fermented in cherrywood and one just in juniper. The cherry taste on the cherrywood version was delicious, sweet and fruity. Our hostess recommended this for cheesecake, strawberries and gelato. The juniper had a more savory flavor, recommended for meats and cheeses.

Ciliegio is cherry and Ginepro is Juniper. The room to the left of the cherry room leads to the exclusive room where the 100 year old balsamic is kept.

We also got to taste this hundred year old balsamic. It tasted sweet and syrupy, exuberant and decadent. Our hostess told us the hundred year balsamic was used at the reception dinner of the Royal Wedding of Prince William and Princess Kate and is ordered from them regularly by the chef to the Royals of Monaco. 

The roses are planted at the end of the grape vines to attract pollinators to assist the fruit. 

https://www.acetaialeonardi.it/en/

Via Mazzacavallo 6241043

Magreta di Formigine (MO)

tel +39 059 554375

fax +39 059 555487

info@acetaialeonardi.it

For tips from the professionals on using balsamic in cooking click HERE

Written by Most Privileged Tourist - www.mostprivilegedtourist.com